The PPT presentation on Chanderi Saree , the Famous fabric of Madhya Pradesh.

1. Chanderi Saree
Presentation by :
Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare
(Fashion Design)

2. The Famous Chanderi Fabric

3. • Speak of handloom sarees and you cannot forget to
mention the famous Chanderi sarees.
• Named after their birthplace, the town of Chanderi in
Madhya Pradesh, these sarees have been a favourite
with women of all classes.
• And why not, the glossy texture, the light weight and
the richness of the fabric are enough to enchant
anyone.
• And any woman who loves handloom weaves is sure
to have a few Chanderi sarees in her collection.
• If you too are drawn by the charm of Chanderi sarees,
here are some unknown facts that would blow you
away.

4. Specialty
• Chanderi, which is amongst the best known handloom clusters,
occupies a special place because of its centuries old weaving
specialty of producing finely textured fabrics of silk and cotton
embellished with zari woven work, and more specifically because of
its saris that have been patronized by royalty.
• Chanderi is known to have its origin back in the Vedic Period, and is
believed to have founded by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal.
• The Chanderi produces three kinds of fabrics: Pure Silk, Chanderi
Cotton and Silk Cotton.
• The motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral
and peacocks to the geometrics.
• Chanderi Saree, a product intricately woven by hand interspersed
with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for times
immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty.

5. History
• Situated between the hills of Vindhyachal in the state of Madhya
Pradesh in the Ashok Nagar district, North of Madhya Pradesh (MP),
evolution of Chanderi began in 1890’s when the weavers changed
from hand spun yarn to mill made yarn.
• In the year 1910, the royal family of Scindia brought the Chanderi
saree under their patronage and during that period gold thread motif
made its presence in the main body of the cotton muslin saree for the
first time. It further led to the introduction of the silk yarn and over
the years dobby and jacquard use came into existence.
• Keeping in view the changing demand scenario, in 1970’s, the cluster
went forward to weave yet another variety of fabric which combined
a silk warp with a cotton weft.
• Some of the various beautifully striking motifs include ‘Nalferma,
‘Dandidar, ‘Chatai’, ‘Jangla’, Mehndi wale haath’ etc. With around
3,500 looms in working condition, 18,000 people are directly or
indirectly dependent on the industry for their living.

7. Geographic Indication status for
Chanderi Sarees:
• The production of Chanderi has been protected by
India as a Geographic Indication (GI).
• This is a sign used on products with a specific
geographical origin, which have certain qualities
because of the place they have originated from.
• As a WTO member country, India passed the
Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and
protection) Act in 1999, which enables the registration
and better protection of GIs relating to products.
• India has petitioned the World Trade Organization for
the recognition of Chanderi as a GI product at the
international level as well

8. weaving
• Chanderi was always woven using handspun cotton
warps and wefts.
• It was spun as fine as 300 counts, and was as prized
amongst cotton fabrics as the famed muslins of
Dhaka.
• However, the Industrial Revolution sounded the first
death knell on this beautiful textile.
• The British imported cheaper 120 to 200 count
cotton from Manchester, which greatly eroded the
market for the more expensive Chanderi cloth.

10. • In the 1930s, Chanderi weavers discovered
Japanese silk.
• They began substituting this in the warps in
cotton sarees, and also developed a silk-by-silk
variety in which their profit margins were
higher.
• As a result, today, it is difficult to find a
genuine cotton-by-cotton Chanderi saree in
retail establishments.
• The problem of sourcing authentic Chanderi
has been exacerbated by the development of
many look-alikes available at cheaper rates.

12. Buttis / Butta "Motifs”:
• Since the inception of the Chanderi fabric and primarily ladies
Sarees, the buttis on the Fabric are hand-woven on Handloom.
There is no use of any other process of manufacturing and it is Gold
coated, Silver coated and as well as Copper coated.
• Now a days Tested Zari Butti are also common and in use. The
Tested Zari is made with the use of Synthetic yarn. The Buttis are
made by use of Needles. Number of Needles used depends upon
the number of Buttis and its size. For each Butti/Butta separate
Needles are used. All the weavers involved in this process are
experts in it since they have been doing this for long. time.
• The most popular and traditional kind of Butti is Asharfi Butti, which
is in shape of Asharfi (woven in pure gold and silver Zari and now a
day it is also woven in Tested Zari). This kind of Butti was in use in
past only by the Royal families because it is very expensive as
genuine Gold and Silver is used.
• The Butti which is big is size is popularly called as Butta with all other
specifications.

14. • The handmade Buttis are permanent in its nature and
existence as well, interlaced and its original shape and
structure always remain the same even after its long
use.
• Whereas in comparison the Buttis created with the use
of Power loom are not permanent and losses its shape
and structure after some time.
• The thread used at Chanderi is of fine quality and even
after long use its thread never comes out and its original
shape and appearance is retained forever.
• It has no comparison anywhere else in the country or
for that reasons in whole of the world.
• It is easily distinguishable from the Buttis made outside
Chanderi even with naked eye because of the process of
manufacture and this itself is requisite ingredient for
legal protection and for exclusive recognition.

15. Transparency
• The Chanderi Fabric is also well known for its transparency and
sheer texture.
• The transparency is a unique feature, which is not commonly or
found in any of the textile products all over the country.
• The transparency in Chanderi Fabric products is the consequence of
Single Flature quality of yarn used. Flature yarn is the quality of yarn
when the Glue of the raw yarn is not taken out.
• The none - degumming of the raw yearn gives shine and
transparency to the finished fabric.
• This quality is not found in any other Fabric of the country and it is
exclusive to the Chandari Fabric.
• The special transparent yarn is used both in warp and weft of
different varieties and configurations.
• The transparent yarn is cotton and as well as silk also.

17. • The yarn used in Chanderi fabric is of high quality and
extra fine. Because of non-degumining of the raw yarn,
the finished fabric produced is extremely transparent
and which in consequence result into sheer texture.
• This quality of the Chanderi Fabric is in existence since
Moghul times and found mention if the Govt. gazetteer
and various other history books written on Chanderi.
• This type of Fabric produced is family business in
Chanderi and all the family members are involved in
this process irrespective of caste and creed.

18. Colors and Motifs
• Chanderi silk sarees are generally found in pastel colors like
blush pink, ice blue, mint or even lavender hues. However, with
the modern times kicking in, vibrant combinations of violet,
fuschia, red, black, turquoise is also used.
• The motifs on the Chanderi silk sarees take their inspiration
from the benarsi silk Ashrafi, Paan, Eent, Akhrot, Sooraj buti,
Meena buti etc. When these butis expand in size, they are
referred to as the butas.
• This delicate handwoven Chanderi fabric gives them an upper-
class feel while they are also an absolute favorite of the elite too.
• The distinguishing features of this fabric includes the use of
motifs like peacocks, celestials, lotuses, coins, geometric
patterns, artistic intertwining patterns and figures of animals.

19. How to identify an authentic Chanderi
silk saree?
• The buti embroidery is intricately woven on the surface of the
Chanderi silk saree.
• They have a soft unique texture with fair transparency and
glossy finish.
• It will have an uneven surface.
• These handwoven Chanderi silk sarees have their treads at
the edges coming out easily. This shows the purity and
chastity of the silk saree.

21. The Royal Affair
Rajmata Subhangini Raje
Gaekwad and Maharani Radhika
outside the Laxmi Vilas in Baroda

22. Fashion Connect
• Since ancient times, Chanderi
fabric holds a special position
in the Indian handloom
industry. Traditionally, this
fabric was used to weave the
nine yard drapes. But now,
with fusion of traditional and
modern weaving techniques,
Chanderi fabric is extensively
used by fashion designers to
create Indo-western dresses,
tunics and tops.

23. Actress In Chanderi Saree

24. Black Chanderi Saree

25. BLACK PURE CHANDERI SILK SAREE

26. chanderi sarees with all over design
saree full jaal pattu silk

27. Peach and Pink Cute Cat Weaves
Handloom Chanderi Saree

28. Green Gold Handwoven
Chanderi kataan organza silk sari

29. Caring for Chanderi Saree
• Chanderi speaks of Royal fashion and its famous for its
luxurious feel. The texture of Chanderi is one of its greatest
characteristics. With irreplaceable weaves across its drapes,
taking proper care of Chanderi requires proper attention.
• Most of Chanderi only requires DRY CLEAN. So it is best that
you stick to dry cleaning Chanderi for the longest of its
lifetime.
• If you do however need to wash your Chanderi, then use a
mild detergent and rinse in cold water.
• Dry the fabric inside out. Avoid direct sunlight.

30. Thank you