Crepeand corkscrewweaves

PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com
CREPE WEAVES
These weaves contain no twilling or other prominent effects.
They give a cloth the appearance of being covered by minute
spots or seeds in which the maximum float length is less than
3. An example of crepe weave is sponge weave.
How to construct crepe weave
Construction of Crepe Weave upon sateen bases
Let us consider a crepe weave on 10 end regular satin base.
Let the spot size is 3×3 and the spot be:
As we see that in the spot there is a central element × and
there are side elements o around it.
Step 1: Construct a 10 × 10 grid and place the central element
× in satin base.
Step 2 : Complete the design by putting side elements
around the central element.
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Crepe weave is completed.
Crepe weaves produced by reversing principle
In such cases a small unit weave is first made on any suitable
number of ends and picks. Let us denote our weave with the
help of this diagram:
Now if we rotate the weave to 90 degrees clockwise what we
get will be:

We can combine these two weaves to get a nice crepe effect:
Crepe weaves produced by insertion of one weave over
another.
This method of construction of crepe weaves consists of
inserting two different weaves one over the other. In order to
produce an irregular effect, at least one of the weaves should
be irregular in construction.
How to constuct crepe by this method
Take two irregular weaves, A and B. Here A is an 8-thread
regular sateen derivative and B is the satinette.

At C, the marks of both A and B are combined in the same
design to produce a crepe effect:
Creape Weave produced by combinations of a floating
weave with plain threads
In this system of constructing crepe weaves, threads that work
plain are combined with threads of a floating weave which are
arranged in sateen order.
How to create crepe with this method

Let us take a 8x8 arrangement in which plain marks are
indicated on the odd ends as shown by the dots (o) and
sateen marks on alternate picks of the ends ends, as shown by
the crosses (x)
Marks(#) are then added to the sateen base marks in an order
which fits with the plain weave as shown in the following
figure:
This completes the crepe weave
CORKSCREW WEAVE
These are really twilled ribs. In their simplest form they
produce either a warp or a weft surface.
They are most regular in construction when the repeat
contains an odd number of threads.
WARP CORKSCREW WEAVE

In such weaves the face is dominated by warp. Let us make a
warp corkscrew weave on 7 threads. Ordinary weaves of this
class are constructed on a sateen base counting 2 outwards.
Step 1 : Make a 7×7 grid and fill it with satin base counting
2 outwards.
Step 2 : Now add marks vertically to each satin base such
that number of filled squares vertically are one more
than no of blank spaces, eg as there are 7 spaces in
the first column, so fill vertically so that there are 4
filled spaces and 3 bank spaces.
Similarly we can make corkscrew weave on 9 and 11 threads.
To make warp corkscrew weave on even no of ends, say 8
threads, some modification of the method is necessary.

Step 1: Make an 16×8 grid and fill it with sateen base
counting 2 outwards.
Step 2 : Run a second line of marks-indicated by dots on
even vertical spaces, starting from centre.
Step 3: Complete the design by arranging two more marks
than blanks. Thus in this case in one column there
will be 5 filled square and 3 blanks as:

Similarly we can make weft cork screw weave. The following
example gives a weft corkscrew weave on 7-end sateen. The
base is represented by:
And the final design is as follows. Note that here a mark
represents weft up.

The above was an example of weft corkscrew weave. Similarly
we can produce warp cork screw weave. Below is an example
of such weave:
Modified Warp Corkscrew Weave
Sometimes in order to make the weaves firmer, the floats on
the back are stitched as in the figure below:

Here the (#) mark indicate the stitching at the back. Here the
float on the face is not interfered whereas on the back the
threads weave in the plain order.
Special Corkscrew Weaves
A modification in the method of constructing weave is
necessary when constructing corkscrew weaves which repeat
on an even number of threads.
Let us take a warp corkscrew weave on 8 shafts. To construct
the weave, we proceed as follows:
1. First decide the repeat size. The repeat is twice as many
number of ends as picks. Thus the repeat is 16x8.
Now on odd vertical spaces , a base line of marks, as shown by
the crosses, is inserted and a second line- indicated by # - is
run in on the even vertical spaces. Start the second line of
marks from as near to the centre of picks as possible. This is
shown in the figure given:

Now complete the design by arranging each vertical space ( in
case of warp corkscrew) with two more marks(o) than blanks(
or with the marks and blanks equal).
Corkscrew Weave for the Worsted Fabric
The standard 13-shaft warp corkscrew, is based on a thirteen
thread sateen, counting 4 outwards. Marks(o) are added to the
base marks(X) in the order of add 4, miss2. Very flat twill lines
are formed in the cloth.Such type ofweave is shown as follows:

Crepeand corkscrewweaves

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