Galapagos report in the journal "Show Boats International" with review of Luxury Yacht Stella Maris of Galapagos.

1. A PLACE IN THE SUN
Florida’s hot real estate market
SHORE THING
The world’s best beaches
WET AND WILD
Gallivanting in the Galapagos
FOREVER
YOUNG
Chasseur’s timeless vision
How to navigate the
world’s biggest boat
show like a VIP
SAIL TO THE CHIEF
Tales of romance, intrigue and
political undoing on presidential yachts
9 surefire ways to get your
yacht charter ready
TH E
J E T S E T
Private
aviation
special
pg-97
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243
GALLIVANTING IN
THE GALÁPAGOS
When you can witness the birth of sea lions, swim with penguins
and spot flamingos wading in craters, the definition of luxury takes
on a whole new meaning, even aboard a 124-foot yacht.
Words – Ceci le Gauer t
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W
e’re just a little more than one hour into
the flight from Guayaquil, Ecuador’s
commercial hub, when the crew starts
preparing to land on Baltra, a flat island and
former U.S. army base in the Galápagos. I expect to hear
about seat belts and tray tables and I have my finger on the
armrest ready to straighten my seat, when I hear something
a little out of the ordinary: “Insecticide will be applied to the
interior of the cabin.” As if on cue, a steward comes down
the aisle, systematically spraying the contents of a canister
inside overhead compartments. A few passengers shift
uncomfortably in their seats and lean away from the center
aisle. Suddenly I feel a little like an intruder — and it won’t be
the only time on this trip.
The reason for this precaution is clear. It does not take
much to tip the delicate balance in this special world that
straddles the Equator in the Pacific. Invaders can wipe out
entire species. One such culprit identified a few years ago
is a fly whose larvae feed on the brain of baby finches. The
numbers of these birds unique to the Galápagos have been
dwindling to the point that they may become extinct within
a few decades. The poster boy of extinction in the Galápagos,
however, is a Pinta Island male tortoise nicknamed
Lonesome George.
He was the last of the island’s giant tortoises when he
died of old age in June 2012, leaving behind “Don Fausto,”
his caretaker of 40 years. Tortoises were once prized
as both trophies and food. Sailors from passing ships
captured tortoises that they kept alive, upside down in
the ship’s cargo hold, as a source of fresh food during
long passages. A few of Pinta’s tortoises escaped the fate
of their brethren and “George,” who scientists think
came out of a nest sometime in 1910, became the last one
standing. Discovered in 1972, the tortoise showed little
interest in the females introduced to him and when he
finally did, he proved sterile. He left no descendant and
everyone believed the Pinta tortoise extinct — that was
until recently. Scientists found close relatives of George’s
family on a nearby island and, through gene selection, may
be able to revive the Pinta Island’s tortoise subspecies.
The story of Lonesome George has helped raise the profile
of conservation organizations, such as the U.S.-based
Galápagos Conservancy (see sidebar, page 248).
Most of the Galápagos (97 percent is the official number)
are protected as a national park that encompasses roughly
1.7 million acres of volcanic land and clear water. The
islands’ location at the confluence of several strong
currents is what makes them a “Hotel California” of sorts
for the animals who accidentally landed on their shores.
With the prevalent winds blowing away from the South
American continent and the huge distance to the nearest
land, essentially once here, they can never leave. As a result,
the Galápagos have animals that exist nowhere else; for
instance, the only colony of penguins to live on the Equator
and marine iguanas that feed on algae.
You can swim with sea lions, dodge darting penguins
The Galápagos is a
“Hotel California” of
sorts for the animals
who accidentally
landed on its shores.
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and stand practically nose-to-beak with red-throated
frigates and blue-footed boobies. It feels at once eerie
and wonderful to get so close to animals that have no
compulsion to flee, and it makes the Galápagos an
irresistible destination for animal lovers, photographers
and even seasoned biologists.
The most populous islands, Santa Cruz and San
Cristobal, have hotels and luxury eco-resorts that are
very much in vogue, but the best way to appreciate the
archipelago’s rich diversity, especially on a first-time trip,
is by boat. While possible, taking a private vessel to the
Galápagos is a lengthy and difficult process that requires,
among other things, a complete hull inspection. The
prerequisite hull cleaning is the equivalent of spraying
the airplane’s cabin with bug spray.
An easier option is to book a trip on one of the local
vessels. Few are available for full charters and, generally
speaking, standards don’t compare with private yachts
offered for charter in the Caribbean and the Mediterranean.
The main difference in the charter experience, however, has
to do with the restrictions and regulations that Ecuador
has enacted to protect this eco-biosphere. All boats (charter
or private) must follow an itinerary tightly controlled by
the park service and must have a park-appointed naturalist
on board. The naturalists are there, in part, to ensure
visitors don’t get overly enthusiastic and overstep their
bounds: Penguin-hugging and sea lion-kissing are seriously
frowned upon. But they are also there to educate and can
make the first approach to the islands’ history and nature so much
more meaningful.
A recent addition to the Galápagos fleet is 124-foot yacht Stella
Maris. Formerly known as Talon, the 1987 Picchiotti was purchased
by a family from Ecuador who wanted to combine the wilderness
experience of the Galápagos with the comfort and luxury of a
charter yacht. The owners undertook a major refit in Guayaquil in
2014, outfitting the vessel with eco-friendly materials for 12 guests
and 14 crewmembers. After the refit, the owners focused on the
onboard experience. They hired two crewmembers trained to cater
to luxury yacht guests to join Stella Maris’ professional Ecuadorian
crew, led by experienced captain Daniel Mora, a Galápagos native.
As first mate and chief stew, they added all the details that set a
luxury yacht charter apart from a mere boat expedition: welcome
drink, aromatic fresh towel upon returning from a snorkeling
excursion, a new table setting for every meal and turn-down
service, among them.
A short cruise on Stella Maris was what brought me to the
Galápagos. It far exceeded any of my expectations. Luxury in
the Galápagos has a whole new meaning. Picture yourself some
625 miles from the Latin American continent amid a landscape
continuously reshaped by volcanoes, eating delicate food, sleeping
in comfortable beds and, as every day dawns, coming closer to
wildlife than in any zoo or aquarium.
The food is worth mentioning, as it is such a big part of the
charter experience and fulfilling a sudden craving in the islands
TOP 5 EXPERIENCES
SWIMMING AMONG THE STARS
We boarded Stella Maris’ tender after dark and
for a few exhilarating minutes headed toward a horizon
imagined rather than seen in the warm, salty air. When
the lights on Stella Maris became a faint glow, we stopped.
Stirring the water with our hands unleashed a chain
reaction of green bioluminescence. We cautiously slid into
the ocean and began swimming around the boat. The sea
around us filled with exploding bursts of light matching
the celestial vault riddled with stars. It was as if we were
swimming in the Milky Way.
HANGING ON ENRIQUE’S WORDS
Our tour guide, Enrique, a San Cristobal native, answered
all the questions we threw his way. Latest volcanic eruption,
history, Darwin, types of cacti, birth cycle of boobies,
favorite flamingo food — you name it, he knew about it. He
made our visits endlessly fascinating, while gently coaxing
us not to intrude on wildlife. One fun fact we learned from
Enrique: Sea turtles may not choose when they mate (the
male is in charge), but they choose when they give birth —
up to three years after their romantic encounter.
PLAYING WITH SEA LIONS
Snorkeling in a warm and strong current, I was following
a school of fish tacking left and right under the directions
of an invisible conductor when a dark mass sheathed in
tiny bubbles appeared in the corner of my mask and shot
up like a cork out of a bottle. Startled, I went up for air and
as soon as I surfaced, I heard screeches of delight from
the other snorkelers. Young sea lions had decided to join
our party. They darted and twirled around us completely
at ease with swimmers much less gifted than them.
REVISITING THE BIRDS
I’d venture to say that Alfred Hitchcock would have
loathed this excursion, but I loved it. In dry season, the
tortured trees and bushes of North Seymour Island are
devoid of leaves. It makes it easier to see their occupants.
On nearly every bush or tree is a nest of blue-footed
boobies or frigatebirds. Frigates are not likeable birds
(they are thieves after all), but to see them court their
mates is a treat. Wings extended and red throats bellowing,
the males’ mating dance looks like Kabuki theater.
STOPPING IN GUAYAQUIL
Getting to the Galápagos by air on scheduled flights
requires an overnight stay on mainland Ecuador. While
nearly everyone goes to Quito, I flew through Guayaquil.
A local guide unlocked fascinating facts about the city,
from a market called the Crystal Palace, designed by
students of Gustave Eiffel, to the historic district of Las
Peñas, where wooden buildings house artist galleries. In
another neighborhood, papier-mâché figurines that would
be burned on December 31 for the tradition of Año Viejo
(the old year) lined the sidewalks. Burning the effigies,
which represent past misfortunes, guarantees a fresh
start. Monsters, political figures, actors — even cartoon
characters (something for the kids) — awaited their fate.
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WHEN TO GO
You can visit the Galápagos
year-round. High seasons are
mid-June to early September
and mid-December to
mid-January. December
through May, it rains more
and the water is warmer.
TO SERVE
AND PROTECT
Johannah Barry, founder and president
of the Galápagos Conservancy, says
she often gets letters from visitors to
the Galápagos saying that their stay
was the most extraordinary experience
of their lives. “They say, ‘I want this
place to be there for my children
and grandchildren.’ People feel an
intergeneration responsibility, and
they are the biggest allies that the
Galápagos have,” she says.
An environmental NGO based in the
U.S., the Galápagos Conservancy works
with public institutions in Ecuador to
support programs from education
to scientific studies. A scientific advisor
to the organization is herpetologist
Dr. Linda Cayot. Known for her work
with Lonesome George, among other
projects, she collaborates with the park
service and Charles Darwin Research
Station (CDRS) to protect tortoises
throughout the islands.
The Galápagos Conservancy currently
is also co-funding a CDRS program led
by Scottish and Ecuadorian marine
scientist Inti Keith to minimize the
impact of marine invasive species.
“I think it’s a huge issue,” says Barry.
“About twenty percent of the marine
species found in the Galápagos are
endemic, which is a big number.” Boat
traffic and more frequent periods of
El Niño are contributing to an increase
in undesirables that compete with the
natives for resources, she adds. Even
very small invaders, such as algae,
plant debris or seeds, which are easily
transported, can be threats. To view
more programs, download a shark app
or find ways to help, visit
www.galapagos.org.
ABOUT STELLA MARIS
Managed by Worth Avenue Yachts, Stella
Maris offers itineraries balancing water and
land activity, from $150,000 per week. Refit
in 2014, the yacht accommodates 12 guests
in a master suite, two VIPs and four guest
cabins and carries two Novurania tenders,
kayaks and snorkeling gear.
www.worthavenueyachts.com
is not always possible. Some items are hard to find or limited by
the national park service. Strawberries, for example, can only
be imported unripe and with their greens chopped off, just one
example in a long list of restricted fruit and vegetable imports. But
the islands provide wonderful local ingredients, including freshly
caught lobster and fish, locally grown beef and fragrant fruit (the
Galápagos oranges are small and full of seeds but make delectable
juice). The yacht’s chef surprised and delighted us with creative
and delicious meals catering to a variety of diets.
Stella Maris, like any other yacht here, needs to follow the
national park’s schedule. While we were never alone at anchor,
the other boats and their guests were seldom intrusive. The tender
took us to many coves where our small group was virtually solo.
One of many memorable moments during an intense three days
was an afternoon cruise that landed us on a white-sand beach just
before sunset. We had to step gingerly to avoid the sea lions lying
on the shore. And then we realized what we had just happened to
walk into. Colorful sally lightfoot crabs were clinging to a sort
of ragged shiny pink sheet. Nearby was a big sea lion on her side
and tiny pups nuzzling her stretched belly. This was a mother and
her brand-new family and what the crabs were busily doing was
disposing of the afterbirth.
I felt like an intruder once again, but something else — the sight
of this nursery in the wild — stirred something deeper, a feeling
that is difficult to describe. I looked for some of the comments
visitors shared about their trip to the Galápagos; some said they
felt like Adam and Eve in the proverbial garden. It is a cliché, but
that may be the easiest way to put it. What it felt like was that I had
witnessed the beginning of time.
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